Welcome to my blog! My name is Derik VanVleet, and I'm the owner and builder behind VanVleet Woodworking LLC. I hope you find this space both useful and insightful. Feel free to drop a comment below—I’d love to hear from you!
Today, I want to talk about a simple yet durable way to finish your woodworking projects. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a beginner, choosing the right finish can make all the difference in how your piece turns out. There are countless options out there, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed. But if you’re like me, you’re looking for a finish that’s quick, tough, and easy to fix if something goes wrong. Plus, my approach focuses on letting the wood speak for itself—because isn’t that why you chose high-quality hardwood in the first place?
One thing I avoid at all costs is staining wood. While it’s popular for certain types of wood like oak, I prefer to highlight the natural beauty of my materials. Cherry, walnut, and other hardwoods deserve to shine without being masked by artificial coloring. Instead of stain, I opt for natural oils, which enhance the grain while protecting the wood.
For my base coat, I typically use a wiping varnish. This is essentially a blend of natural oils (like tung or linseed oil) mixed with a solvent such as mineral spirits. The solvent speeds up drying time significantly compared to using pure oil alone. Over the years, I’ve had great results with Formby’s Tung Oil Finish. It’s already thinned down, making it fast-drying and perfect for multiple coats. These oils penetrate the wood, curing and hardening to provide some protection. After applying a couple of coats, I’ll move on to the topcoat.
When it comes to topcoats, I prefer either shellac or polyurethane. Shellac is a natural option that comes in flakes and dissolves in denatured alcohol. You can buy pre-mixed shellac, but I recommend diluting it yourself to save money. Start with a 60/40 mix of shellac to alcohol for your first coat. Work carefully, ensuring an even application, and lightly sand between coats with 600-grit sandpaper to smooth out any imperfections. Repeat until you reach your desired number of layers—usually three to five.
If you prefer polyurethane, follow the same principles. However, I suggest using oil-based polyurethane rather than water-based for a smoother finish. And while “wipe-on†polyurethane might seem convenient, it’s not worth the extra cost. Mix your own by combining polyurethane with mineral spirits, starting with a 50/50 ratio and adjusting as needed.
Once everything is dry, I like to buff out the final piece with fine steel wool (0000 grade) and a good furniture wax. This removes any lingering dust particles and gives the surface a beautiful sheen. The wax also adds an additional layer of protection that you can refresh over time.
In conclusion, achieving a natural, durable, and repairable finish doesn’t have to be complicated. Start with quality wood and focus on preserving its natural beauty. A wiping varnish as a base coat followed by a protective topcoat will give you a finish that lasts a lifetime. Happy building—and happy finishing!
P.S. Here are some products I’ve found useful:
- [Original Wood Finish, Quart](https://www.amazon.com/Tried-True-Wood-Finish-Original/dp/B003DL10LQ)
- [Osmo Polyx-Oil - Clear Matte](https://www.amazon.com/Osmo-Polyx-Oil-Clear-Matte-Liter/dp/B07FQ25164)
- [Formby Tung Oil](https://www.amazon.com/Formby-30063-Tung-gloss-16-Ounce/dp/B000RMS0JO)
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