Top luxury jewelry brands often extend their expertise into the world of watches, excelling in the creation of elegant jewelry timepieces. These watch straps share a common artistic inspiration, drawing from rich cultural and historical backgrounds. Renowned names like Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier have long embraced this artistry, and Bulgari is another standout in this category. Known for its iconic serpent motif, Bulgari has made the snake a powerful symbol in its design language. At this year’s Paris Antique Jewelry Biennial, the Bulgari Serpenti collection showcased three stunning serpentine designs, captivating audiences with their elegance and charm.
The serpent has been a key element in Bulgari’s identity since the 1940s. Rooted in ancient Egyptian symbolism, the snake represented eternity, femininity, and prosperity. It was seen as a protective and empowering emblem, embodying both mystery and strength. The allure of the serpent has transcended time, evolving into a timeless symbol of grace and power.
Ancient Rome had a deep connection with the serpent, where it was often associated with Aphrodite, the goddess of love. In the first century AD, the serpent became a staple in Roman fashion, reflecting the era's fascination with beauty and symbolism. No figure was more closely linked to the serpent than Cleopatra, the last active ruler of the Ptolemaic Kingdom of Egypt. When she arrived in Rome in 46 BC, gold bracelets adorned her arms, enhancing her radiant presence and reinforcing the serpent’s association with power and allure.
In the 1960s, Elizabeth Taylor, the legendary actress, commissioned her favorite jeweler in Rome, 10 Conti, to create a Serpenti bracelet for her role in the film *Cleopatra*. This not only brought the design into the spotlight but also aligned it with the spirit of the Dolce Vita movement—a celebration of modern, youthful hedonism that transformed the serpent into a symbol of immortality and elegance.
Since the 1940s, the serpent has remained a central theme in Bulgari’s collections. The Serpenti series emerged as a signature line, blending bold creativity with craftsmanship. By the 2010s, the brand reimagined the design with striking, innovative styles that once again captured global attention.
At the turn of the 21st century, the serpent regained its mystical appeal, symbolizing magic and intrigue. Its sinuous, slender form perfectly complements the flow of time, while its feminine curves reflect Bulgari’s commitment to breaking free from conventional boundaries. The brand continues to push creative limits, infusing each piece with a sense of sophistication and avant-garde flair.
Another notable design feature in the Serpenti collection is the Spiga pattern—wheat ear motifs that have been used since the 1990s. This intricate design wraps around the snake’s head, creating a graceful, flowing silhouette. The wheat ear, a symbol of harmony and abundance in ancient theology, represents the cycle of life and growth. In ancient Greece and Rome, wheat was deeply tied to weddings, signifying the promise of love and fertility.
The Serpenti collection embodies the essence of regeneration and time, enhanced by a vibrant use of color, diverse materials, and cutting-edge techniques. Each Bulgari timepiece is a masterpiece, combining elegance with innovation.
While the serpent motif isn’t exclusive to Bulgari—Boucheron has also incorporated it into its designs—Bulgari stands out for its ability to blend ancient cultural heritage with modern aesthetics. Over thousands of years, the brand has woven the legacy of ancient Rome into its designs, creating a timeless and iconic identity. (Text / Fu Xue Ting, Watch World)
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